choose an epoxxy

How To Choose An Epoxy

Tabletop surface coating, tank coating, quick coating, winter coating, coat of arms…. I mean, it just feels like there are thousands of epoxies out there. How do you choose which one you go with? Which one do you choose for which project? That’s a lot to consider.

Here’s the secret.

All the epoxies that you see out there. Well, 95 percent of them boil down to just four different types. Let me clear the air and explain each one.

In order to explain this best, let’s talk fruit!

I’ve made a little graph quickly for me to better explain everything…we’ve got an apple, an orange, a banana and a bunch of grapes. Each one of these is going to represent a type of epoxy.

Also on the other side, you’re going to see a pie, a beautiful glass of orange juice, some bread and, well, a grape juice. Now, keep in mind, all of these are fruits, but they’re all very, very different and have different applications. An apple is delicious in pies and orange. Well, that’s a good way to start the morning. Bananas makes my all time favorite bread, banana bread. If you’d like to send me some banana bread, I’m not going to be mad at you.

And grapes. Well, grapes make grape juice. Yes, these are all fruits, but not each one of these works for all the other applications that we have over here. For instance, I don’t want anything to do with banana pie and I don’t want to deal with grape bread either. They would just get hot and it would be like a nasty Ushery fruity situation. That sounds terrible.

All right. So each one of these fruits, well, it coordinates to a certain type of epoxy.

If we look at our apples and we can call that our surface coating , you might have heard of this as a tabletop. I’ll represent that with T tabletop or orange. Let’s call that are more UV resistant. That’s going to have that extra juice in there to make sure it doesn’t yellow nearly as quickly as our bananas. We can call that our quick hearing. And then lastly, we have our grapes on here. Let’s call that our deep pores, these four types of epoxy.

That’s it. I mean, that’s 99 percent of the epoxy that you see out there on Amazon online and all these YouTube videos. They’re one of these four types. So what are these four types of poxes good for and what are they not good for? Well, for surface coatings and tabletop a poxes tumblers counters. That stuff is perfect for it’s made for that for UV resistant stuff. That’s where art comes into play. Photo encapsulation stuff you want to protect and have it not yellow.

So quickly now quick curing epoxies are perfect for sealing wood for fast coatings, when you need to keep going on a project and you don’t want to wait twenty four hours for something to cure. And then deposit boxes are obviously perfect for river tables, large castings, and you still want beautiful clarity. Now these four types of epoxy are great, but this isn’t enough information. I don’t think. I think you need more details. I’m not going to be able to talk through all the other competitive products out there because, well, I don’t have all those details, but I do have details.

So let’s use our products as the examples. take a look at this board i have written on and I’ll talk through these products. All right. Here’s our chart. Here are our four epoxies. Clear cast. That’s our surface coating or tabletop amazing clear cast. Plus, that’s our UV resistant one amazing quick coat. That’s our fast curing.

And then amazing D for you guessed it hard for possie on this side. I’ve got some attributes that we should talk about. Depth, speed, air release, UV resistance, hardness and then applications again, because that’s really why you’re here. All right. So for depth’s, for amazing clear cast, an amazing clearcuts. Plus, you’re looking at about three eights of an inch, not quite half of an inch for amazing quick coat. It’s an eighth of an inch.

Remember, that’s a fast setting epoxy. So we’re dealing with more exothermic there. Camper’s deep and for making deeper. Well, that’s two inches. That is ideal. All right. Let’s talk speed through you off didn’t on that. I definitely do. You got you. All right. Let’s talk speed for amazing clear cast, an amazing clear cast. Plus, you’re looking about about a twenty four hour tax free time. Depends on your temperature. So always keep that noted.

Allow four to six hours. That’s fast. Hence quick coat, although your pour can take time. Twenty four to seventy two to get that tax free. Depends on your temperature again. Is this fully cured. No, that’s still five to seven days or three to five days depending on your product. Next up, air release. Here’s the thing. I’m going to shoot you straight. We formulate all of these to have amazing air release for their applications.

I’ve put the best over here for amazing deep for so that you realize a two inch pour is going to take a lot of air release in order to get that crystal clear. That’s why medicore is water thin so that the bubbles can get out of there. But keep in mind, it’s water thin. It’s not going to do a good job coating a tumbler. Go ahead, pour water on your tumbler and let me know how much of it stays on UV resistance.

I think you can predict this one. The best on this board is definitely the UV resistant epoxy. Wonder why. I will say, though, we do formulate every one of our poxes, though, to have fantastic UV resistance as much as possible within that formulation. No, but if you’re looking for that extra juice, you want to ask plus second to last. Let’s talk about hardness. That’s sure. Hardness on the D scale.

What is that?

It’s a lot of acronyms are 80 on the short scale. That means that they’re really hard and really durable, but not that far behind is amazing clearcuts. Plus with seventy five dollars, these things are as hard as like construction work or hard hats. There’s nothing soft here, folks.

Different Types of Industrial Epoxy Coating For Floors – Epoxy Coating  Specialists

Why should you care about hardness? Well, the fact that we’ve made these really, really strong just means that it’s going to be a lot more durable. It’s got to be harder to dig up your projects and scuffling. Last but not least, Lippestad assistance is the application. When should you use this stuff? Right. So for a surface coating epoxy like Almazan Clear cast, this is for, believe it or not, surface coating, small castings, countertops, stuff where you’re going to pour on a flat surface or around a surface that you’re going to rotate consistently and get a beautiful thane coating for amazing clearcuts.

Plus, we’re looking at art coatings, photo encapsulation, something where you want that project to last as long as possible because it has maybe sentimental value memories to it or it’s going to be outside a lot like a Tumblr where that you’re taking around here. That’s great. If you need that extra UV resistance for Amazing Quico, this is where we’re sealing wood for me. I use this to seal up a board before I pour a deeper foxe on it.

That means that I’m not going to have any air bubble issues or moisture issues. And since it’s only going to take four to six hours, I can keep my project moving for amazing deeper. Well, I hope it’s obvious by now, but River Table’s large castings things where you’re really pouring thick and you need that extra time for the air to release and you need the extra time to make sure it doesn’t exothermic turn yellow and cross. So there it is.

Now, you know, the four different types of epoxy when to use each one and kind of what are the features and benefits of each. If you want to see more content like this, if you’ve got specific questions, I want to know about them. Put them in the comments below and answer them.


Troy Explains: The difference between epoxy, polyurethane, and resin

Today we’re going to cover lot’s of scientific words such as resin, polyurethane and epoxy. You will probably have lots of questions like are they the same thing? Are they not the same thing? What’s your thing and how does ArmorThane fit into this? What about polyester? Is polyester a thing? I don’t know but i am going to answer all of these questions…

Let’s jump in!

We have resin. That’s the huge overarching term. There are organic resins, things like gums that trees produce. We’re not talking about that.

We’re talking about synthetic resins. That’s what you know and love underneath resin. We have thermal plastics and then thermosetting plastics. So thermoplastics, things that can be melted or injection molded or formed, things like acrylic, Delran stuff you probably don’t deal with. Plus we covered these terms in our last post.

So let’s ignore them! 

So thermal setting plastics are usually liquid one or two parts that become solid and stay solid. They don’t meltdown. That’s where we find our good old friends, polyester epoxy and polyurethane.

PU vs Epoxy: What's the Difference and Which Is Best for You?

Let’s quickly go through each. So polyester resin was one of the first synthetic resins that we came up with. And to be honest, it wasn’t that great. It’s brittle now. It’s just using boats with a bunch of fiberglasses to reinforce it. So let’s move on. 

Next was epoxy. Hey, that word sounds familiar. A pox, a type of resin wonder that that’s much stronger, much more solid. We enjoy that!

But it just becomes a hard plastic one time. And that’s it. Not a lot of variety. They’re perfect for river tables, tumblers. 

You know this stuff. You love it. Come on. 

After epoxy, they invented polyurethane. This is much more versatile. It can be foam. It can be rubber. It can be hard plastic. This stuff is wild and crazy ArmorThane that you use in your truck bed. That’s polyurethane.

Some of the phones that you have in cushions and seats are polyurethane woodturning bulls. And Penlington, the beautiful clarity of clear sloth. That’s polyurethane. I know what you’re saying.

Troy, you don’t care about science. All right. No big deal. That’s enough of that. Let’s jump into two things. Epoxy and polyurethane. Why and when you should use each one of them. It’s been all right. So for categories, I want to talk about his products, time, moisture, and ease of use.

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Those are the huge, huge main differences between epoxy and urethane. So let’s jump into each so the products that are epoxy products of ours, you’re going to recognize these amazing clear cast, the new amazing clear cast plus and the even newer, amazing deep or all of those are poxes. So the time aspect of epoxy is it has a pretty linear, a pretty steady here schedule. That’s why when you’re mixing up a batch of epoxy, you have a thirty-five to forty-minute open time, and then you have a cure time of about twenty-four hours and then a full cure of about five to seven days.

It’s linear; it’s pretty steady. That’s very normal. It can still be a shorter time, like a quick coat or a much longer time. Like an amazing or, but it’s pretty linear now when it comes to poxes and moisture. No big deal. They don’t mind it. If you’re doing a woodworking project where epoxy is going directly onto the wood painting, use epoxy, it has a much higher tolerance for that type of moisture in the last category, ease of use for epoxy, there is a high tolerance.

What I mean by high tolerance, it’s forgiving. All right. A little bit of an ounce off here, there is a larger batch, or I’m not sure if I got everything mixed perfectly, perfectly. It’s still going to harden up. It’s still going to be fine. Now, what about Urethane coating? Well, a couple of different things here as far as products go. This is clear Slowes RC is another popular one. Flex, Flex Rubber’s, our flex foams.

There’s a ton of urethane products we have. They’re amazing. Let’s talk about their cure schedule, their cure time. What happens in that? Well, usually, with urethane, we have a lot more variables. We can change, and we can manipulate things accordingly. So what you’ll see is nothing happening, nothing going on. Nothing’s happened. Suddenly it’s cured. I couldn’t resist. I’m sorry. So these things cure quickly, usually on a short schedule.

So you’ll be going steady, and then bam, it’s cured, or you’re going pretty steady, and then really quickly it’s cured fast. That’s why we suggested woodturning applications because you can pour a blank, get it in the pressure. Part D demoed it in ninety minutes and got going with an epoxy. It’s a little bit harder. Here’s the thing, though, as much as we love how fast those things kick back, not a fan of moisture. I could put a little drop of water into your thing, and it would start to foam.

So should you use this within woodworking projects? No, not unless your wood is completely stabilized. Now, as far as ease of use of your Thain’s, well, there are a little less forgiving there. You are still forgiving, but a little bit less. That’s why you’re often going to see on the labels one to one by weight or two to one by weight. This is a little bit more of exact science, and you got to pay attention to it.

All right. So there you go. Hopefully, that clears much information about the world of resins and the epoxy world within that, and the polyurethane world within that, and the polyester resin world. It’s a lot. I know. Let us know if you want me to do another one of these. I’ll go even deeper to the extent.

Visit ArmorThane to learn how you can purchase and use these amazing chemicals!

Diagram EpoxyPolyspart

The Showdown: Epoxy vs. Polyaspartic Coatings

Epoxy Coatings vs. Polyaspartic Coatings

Ever since the creation of the first concrete floor, humanity has searched for a way to protect and beautify the surface. Epoxy coatings have been around since the 1930’s and have since taken off to become one of the most popular protectors of concrete floors. Fairly new to the party, polyurea polyaspartic coatings have quickly become the darlings of those who want a fast dry time. Let’s examine each of these contenders and see how they stack up against one another.

Epoxy Coatings

Epoxies are resin polymers made of epoxide units, cyclic three-atom ether rings containing an oxygen atom, and two carbon side-groups. The triangular units are electronically strained and are therefore very reactive. Normally, epoxy resin is produced by reacting bisphenol A and epichlorohydrin, but variants popular for concrete floor applications involve novolac and aliphatic epoxy resins. A typical application consists of an epoxy primer, a color base coat, and two polyurethane layers.

Benefits of Epoxy Coatings:

  • Not unreasonable in price
  • Creates a hard, decorative finish
  • You have many finish options, including color and mix-ins
  • Very tough
  • Unyielding to chemicals
  • Good adhesion — won’t raise
  • Long pot life, allowing it to be applied with a manual gun

Drawbacks of Epoxy Coatings:

  • Less flexible and less resistant to abrasion
  • It can be moderately difficult to apply in hot or cold conditions
  • It has a longer drying time
  • Has potentially hazardous vapors, although recent formulas have fixed this
  • May not be colorfast — subject to fading or yellowing from UV exposure, though many formulations include UV protection
  • It cannot be applied when the temperature is below freezing

Polyaspartic Coatings

First introduced in the 1990s, polyaspartic coatings arise from aliphatic polyisocyanate reacting with polyaspartic ester, a diamine. The compound is known as an aliphatic polyurea, which is quite different from conventional polyureas and, in many ways, better. By tailoring the relative amount of the ester, scientists can craft different polyaspartic coatings with various features. For garage floor applications, the ester is the main component, ending in low emissions and quick drying. When applied to grey concrete floors, polyaspartic floor coatings produce a glossy, almost watery tone that customers can color. In some applications, decorative chips are spread on the still-wet topcoat.

Benefits of Polyaspartic Coatings:

  • Easier application in a wide variety of cold and hot conditions
  • Hard, smooth finish that is stain- and scratch-resistant, great for high-traffic spaces
  • Clear and non-sticky when hard
  • Fast-drying times cures to full strength in 20-30 min
  • Colors and decorative chips possible
  • Colorfast, even when utilized to slightly damp concrete
  • Low VOCs and odor
  • Low viscosity gives it good wetting capacity on concrete but requires a reduced rate of solids
  • High, controllable film build-up
  • Not likely to bubble from outgassing

Drawbacks of Polyaspartic Coatings:

  • The relatively new product, professional application suggested
  • Short pot life needs the use of automatic application guns
  • Two to three times more costly to purchase and apply
  • Must avoid high moisture vapor emission rate conditions when utilizing
  • We might have to thin the first coat for better adhesion
  • It doesn’t hold up as well to battery acids
  • Very slippery when wet, so a top aggregate such as chips suggested